The Run-Through with Vogue

Happy Day 1 of Shark Week!
Today, we’re on the ground at Milan Fashion Week. There were debuts from Meryll Rogge at Marni, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, and – most anticipated of all – Demna at Gucci. Nicole Phelps, Head of Editorial Content at Vogue Italia Francesca Ragazzi, and Vogue contributor Luke Leitch were there to take it all in, and The Run-Through was right there with them.
The question going into the Gucci show was: who is Demna now? After a decade of deconstruction and conceptual provocation at Balenciaga—jackets made from trousers, outrageous couture wrapped in 50 meters of tulle—the designer stepped into one of fashion's most iconic houses with an eye towards what fashion needs now.
At Marni, Meryll Rogge brought her knitwear expertise and a genuine emotional connection to the brand: she bought her first pair of Marni platforms with her first paycheck as an assistant at Marc Jacobs, and wore a Marni skirt to her brother's wedding as a teenager. 
At Moschino, Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza went back to his Argentine roots, finding inspiration in the landmarks, monuments and icons of his home country. The show closed with a model carrying a piggy bank purse and wearing shoes encrusted in euros. "It's not just about creativity, it's about finances," Appiolaza told Phelps backstage.
Earlier in the week, Vogue World Milan was announced for September 22nd at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II—"the Sistine Chapel of Shopping," as Leitch called it—with the theme of the human touch in the age of technology. 
Next stop, Paris!
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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We are revisiting one of our favorite episodes with none other than Mr. Calvin Klein. He came to the Vogue podcast studio last year to chat with Nicole Phelps.
Calvin is the designer who dressed America—and the world—in his designer jeans and logo underwear. The designer who broke all the rules of luxury advertising and in the process became a household name. The designer whose streamlined slip dresses and sleek suits, even after over 20 years of retirement, still define American minimalism, providing a template for young designers of today.
He talked about his early days in the Bronx, his own first job at Women’s Wear Daily, his quest for perfection, and the keys to unparalleled success. Two words: Confidence and Drive
But first, Chioma shares an update from Milan, talks about her busy weekend at Vogue Cafe London and co-hosting British Vogue and GQ's Fashion & Film Party, and reveals her highlights from London Fashion Week. Chloe talks about her first issue with Rosalia hitting news stands and Vogue's Casa Magazines pop-up!
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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Today in Milan, Jil Sander Creative Director Simone Bellotti will show his second collection. Two weeks out from the show he was in New York – not to finalize the collection, which he says was largely locked a month ago, but to introduce the brand's new campaign alongside model Guinevere van Seenus. Van Seenus opened Bellotti's debut show and was the star of the Craig McDean campaigns that defined Jil Sander in the nineties. He’s looking back on those days as he prepares for the new collection.
“It’s a brand that you really have to study,” he told Nicole Phelps.
For fall, Bellotti’s mood board is organized around the idea of home—not as sanctuary, but as something more ambivalent. He's been watching Rainer Werner Fassbinder films and exploring the way the director used interiors to create tension and unease, to make the familiar feel threatening. He’s also shifting his approach for the new collection: where his first show was about reduction, this one is about addition. “I love this idea of contradiction,” he said. 
Jil Sander once described the mood of her collections like a “clear glass of water” or a “glass of red wine.” When asked to describe the mood of his fall collection: Bellotti didn't miss a beat: it's the olive in a martini. “It’s this extra thing that is apparently superfluous,” he said, “But it makes the cocktail perfect.”

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Earlier this week, designer Erdem Moralioglu debuted his latest collection in London at his 20th anniversary show. Titled “The Imaginary Conversation” this show was less a retrospective (a term he shied away from) and more an embrace of his many historic and current muses in imagined conversation with one another. 
Dame Kristin Scott Thomas joined the legendary designer on the podcast during his big week who has been her friend for over a decade, since he designed an outfit for her to wear to the palace for her damehood appointment. At the time, his working space was above a movie theater and “everything smelled of popcorn” Moralioglu recounted to Chioma in Vogue’s London studio. 
The pair of friends also recalled with some fondness and a twinge of horror the infamous nail polish incident of 2018 at the Met Gala—one can imagine where that story is headed—and all the other moments along the way when the Dame has phoned her dear friend with fashion emergencies. 
Scott Thomas also took advantage of her moment in front of the microphone to ask Erdem one of her own questions about his process of pattern cutting which was even informative for our resident fashion savant Chioma. As he looks back on the last 20 years, Moralioglu lingers on a sentiment he expressed in his Erdem book—that simultaneously everything has changed and nothing has changed. “I can look back at my graduate collection and at sketchbooks from when I was 21 and still see a connection between who I was then and who I am now,” he told the podcast.
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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Since landing the role of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy in the new FX series Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette, actress Sarah Pidgeon has had to undergo a full transformation. Not only did she dye her dark brown hair blonde (which she says is here to stay, at least for now!), but she also worked with a movement coach to nail down CBK’s mannerisms. 
“I was really focused on my eyes and I was thinking about taking all this information from these books and interviews that I had sort of gathered,” Pidgeon told Chloe Wednesday afternoon in Vogue’s podcast studio. With less than a minute of recorded video of Carolyn to work off of, Sarah found that listening to Elizabeth Beller’s book Once Upon A Time on repeat was the best way to prepare. 
Beyond her transformation, Sarah discussed her strategy for red carpet dressing, telling the story behind her feather dress and pant look she work to the show’s premiere. And she dives into all of the clothes she actually was able to steal from set!
Earlier in the show, Chioma tells Choe how the Gisele Pelicot digital cover story came to be. She also runs through her London Fashion Week schedule (with Tolu Coker and Chopova Lowena as two highlights) and Chloe discusses how she came up with her new newsletter Malle Wear.
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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