On The Scent

This week has been a curious mix of in-between weather: oddly misty days with some areas of the U.K. looking distinctly Dickensian as ‘pea-souper’ fogs rolled in, though spring sunshine tried to peek through. Other days it’s felt almost autumnal again - chilly enough to crave our cosier clothes (and fragrances!) again.
After chatting through what we’ve been wearing in these confusing times, we take a look at some more questions listeners have sent in (through Instagram DMs @onthescentpodcast & Facebook group comments), with requests including snuggly scents, two listeners desperately seeking replacements for discontinued perfumes they adored; and an _intensely_ personal memory-making fragrance.
In this episode…

What We’re Wearing:

Suzy:

Frederic Malle Contre-Jour
‘Built against conventional patterns, this fragrance reveals a dazzling yet elusive trail that invites one to never be defined. The perfume echoes the spirit of the mediterranean wildflower ‘Everlasting Flower’, famed for its extraordinary longevity, a sunlit yellow bloom, contrasting with dark, untamable depths of its scent.

Master perfumer Annick Ménardo drew from this inspiration to craft a fragrance that defies traditional olfactive structures. Notes of the Everlasting Flower unfurl a spicy, almond-tinged nature, dancing alongside an intense rose absolute, embracing its shadows and thorns. To imprint this manifesto on the skin, sandalwood oil offers a rhythm, amplifying the enigma of this creation. Captivated by the allure of contradictions, Annick Ménardo creates fragrances of a new era, for those who cherish their own mystery.

Top notes: everlasting flower
Middle notes: rose damascena
Base notes: sandalwood.’

Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombré Rose eau de toilette
‘A quiet morning unfolds in a sunlit Parisian salon. The air is filled with the soft rustle of silk and the gentle clink of porcelain teacups. A bouquet of fresh roses sits atop a lace-covered table, its scent mingling with the delicate aroma of peach and honey. The room exudes an air of timeless elegance, where every detail whispers of grace and refinement.’

Connock Kukui
‘Connock’s signature scent is an elegant, floriental fragrance inspired by the wild, natural beauty of the Hawaiian Islands.
Kukui is built around the gardenia flower, complemented by fresh bergamot and a full bouquet of delicate floral notes including white jasmine, moroccan rose and calla lily. The fragrance is further enriched with base notes of sandalwood, amber, patchouli and musk.’

Nicola:

Bamford Woodland Moss
‘A woody fragrance true to the elegant simplicity of its namesake. Earthy patchouli is balanced with aromatic notes of sage, angelica, and rose. Woodland Moss pays homage to the diverse and intimate landscape of English woods.’

Nécessaire The Deodorant
‘A woody fragrance true to the elegant simplicity of its namesake. Earthy patchouli is balanced with aromatic notes of sage, angelica, and rose. Woodland Moss pays homage to the diverse and intimate landscape of English woods.’

Merit Retrospect
‘A rich, nuanced scent that evolves throughout the day. Soft, clean notes open, followed by a subtle floral center before settling into a base of musk, vanilla, and moss for a warm, second-skin finish.’

Listener Prescriptions:

Aga7006 asked for ideas of warm, cosy perfumes for cold days.

We suggested…

Anillo Fig Whisky
Fig Whisky Eau De Parfum opens with ripe fig and smoky rum, deepening into woods and amber for a fragrance that feels bold yet comforting

Top notes: fruity (fig)
Middle notes: smoky (rum, patchouli, pepper)
Base notes: woody (sandalwood, musk, amber.’

Maison Louis Marie Vanille Infinie
‘No.15 Vanille Infinie unfolds as a warm, luminous composition, soft vanilla layered with citron, sugared amber and cashmere oud for gentle resinous warmth. The Eau de Parfum evolves naturally on skin, shifting with your body heat to reveal a smooth, enveloping trail that feels both intimate and enduring.’

Commodity Milk (Bold)
‘Milk's warm notes of Marshmallow, Tonka Bean and Mahogany Wood emblazoned with the unexpected smoky depth of Firewood and Amber. A smoky, sweet and inviting scent to be worn with confidence.’

Ellis Brooklyn Vanilla Milk
‘Delicious yet sophisticated, faceted yet smooth, VANILLA MILK is a fragrance of paradoxes. VANILLA MILK eau de parfum uses two types of vanilla extracts, a touch of florals, delectable cocoa shell, rich amyris, and a creamy milk accord.
Top: creamy milk accord, frangipani, peony rose
Heart: bourbon vanilla bean, madagascar vanilla bean extract, upcycled cocoa shell extract
Dry Base: benzoin resinoid, amyris, sandalwood, musk.’

Stelladoodle
‘I've been seeking a reasonable facsimile of Tom Ford's discontinued Sahara
Noir. Help!’

[Sahara Noir (2013) is a discontinued, amber-woody fragrance inspired by the mystery of the Middle East. It was all about intense, dry frankincense, resinous labdanum, beeswax, and oud. It was often described as a smoky, golden, and balsamic aroma.

We suggest…

Amouage Royal Tobacco
‘Royal Tobacco is a fragrant journey along the Tropic of Cancer from Oman to Cuba, connecting Royal Frankincense to Regal Tobacco. Interpreted by renowned perfumer Cecile Zarokian, a unique accord of Frankincense and Tobacco bursts alive in a novel and rich sensory experience.’

Top notes: frankincense oil, elemi, cardamom, anise, basil, bergamot

Heart notes: tobacco absolute, liquorice root, lavender, prunol, fenugreek, orange blossom, osmanthus, rose

Base notes: frankincense resinoid, peru balsam, benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, birch tar, tonka bean, vanilla madagascar, vetiver, guaiac wood, oud assam, musks.’

AKRO SMOKE
‘SMOKE is our addictive tobacco fragrance.
Tobacco is an ancient crop, which for centuries, has lured people in with its enticing aroma and powerful rituals. It’s the shared, flirtatious exchange of preparing a roll-up for someone, it’s the way the tobacco leaf crumbles between your fingers, the smell of flame hitting paper. SMOKE is the scent you’re not supposed to enjoy, but the one you can’t live without.’
NOTES
TOP: tobacco leaves
MIDDLE: birch
BASE: benzoin, tonka.’

Boadicea the Victorious Tobacco Sapphire
This glows with honeyed tobacco and shimmering oud, its smoky heart softened by magnolia, rose, and heliotrope. Spiced accents of cumin, coriander, mandarin, incense, and saffron ripple through resinous woods of benzoin, cistus, patchouli, and moss. Vanilla and musk lend a gilded warmth, while caramel, hay, and a trace of singed paper curl into the air - a golden haze of nostalgia and opulence.

(Also try the Sonoma Studio Tabac Aurea mentioned last week!)

jen.m.coyle
Asked for ‘A replacement scent for original Tiffany's by Tiffany and Co. (Now discontinued)?’

[The original Tiffany fragrance was launched in 1987, by François Demachy. The notes were: Top notes: black currant syrup and Italian mandarin, middle notes: violet leaf, lily of the valley, orange blossom, ylang ylang, iris, jasmine and Damascus rose. The base was: woody accords of sandalwood, vetiver, amber and vanilla.]

We wondered if they’d tried…

Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau eau de toilette
‘A fragrance with pictorial qualities. The green of blackcurrant leaves mingles with the tart, fruity notes of blackcurrant buds and the floral intensity of rose.
In L'Ombre dans l'Eau eau de toilette, a romantic painting comes to life - a summer slumber beneath a tree on a river bank.’

Tocca Maya
‘Maya is a thoughtfully indulgent manifestation of the divine feminine. In a warm floral of exquisite character, wild iris and Bulgarian rose find strength in blackcurrant, earthy patchouli and sandalwood.
Florida bitter orange, sweet violet leaf, blackcurrant, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, wild iris, patchouli, sandalwood, and oakmoss.’

Guerlain Chamade
‘Dedicated to liberated women, this green ambery floral blends the fruity accents of blackcurrant buds with a dynamic hyacinth accord and galbanum on a vanilla base. A bold embodiment of freedom, both to be and to love.’

Maison Margiela Replica On a Date
‘Inspired by a magical date on a late summer’s evening overlooking the magnificent vineyards of Provence at sunset. It captures the sparkling and addictive fruitiness of ripe grapes soaked in warm sunshine, and the delicate yet decisive character of wild roses.’

‘Britt Frank In Scents’ shared an incredibly personal story of loss and battling rare illness in her family. She sought ‘a fragrance that I could wear in memory of my extraordinary son and my father. Something that tells of the devastation of losing them but also the blessing and joy of having them in my life. Something that tells of the pride that I have in both of them for the mark they left on the world.’

Suzy

With the world feeling a bit uncertain at the moment we wanted to talk about some of the fragrances that help us feel better.
Here's what we mention:
Acqua Di Parma Colonia Il Profumo Millesimato
‘To mark the 110th anniversary… Expertly distilled over 24 hours and delicately fractionated, the 2024 harvest of Ylang-Ylang from Nosy Be amplifies the vibrancy of the citruses and gives density and depth to the perfume. Italian bergamot, blood orange, petitgrain and grapefruit open the composition with a golden freshness, while rosemary, orange leaves absolute, patchouli, and vetiver give structure and sophistication to this citrus aromatic creation.’
Zara Jo Malone The Golden Lullaby
Creed Wild Vetiver
‘Experience untamed elegance with Wild Vetiver, a composition sculpted by an unexpected harmony of timur berry, rose centifolia and noble vetiver.’
(inspired by an English garden party wandering into the wild. Wild Vetiver is a fragrance off the beaten path, walking the line between precise refinement and nature. Born from noble roots yet spirited in its freedom, this sculpted composition reveals a vibrant tension between sophistication and wilderness. Opening with the spiced vibrancy of hand-harvested timur berry, the heart unfolds as rose centifolia rambles freely. At the base, vetiver casts a woody trail, grounding the composition with modern elegance. This is an enchanting journey through an aristocratic garden, where halcyon moments and the joy of missing out drift through the air.)
Chloe Nomad Eau de Parfum Naturel

Jo Malone London English Pear & Sweet Pea
‘Sun-warmed orchards spring to life as tempting green pears fill the branches. The luscious fruits enveloped in softly scented pastel sweet peas, nestled on a base of powdery white musk.’
“I can't help but smile when I wear English Pear & Sweet Pea. It's playful,
subtle and instantly makes my day better.” – Lizzy Jagger

Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia
(Georgia May Jagger wears): ‘Orchards steeped in golden sunshine, warming the russet curves of luscious pears. The sensuous freshness of the just-ripe fruit wrapped in elegant white freesias, enhanced with rose and rooted in patchouli.’

“I love it because it’s classic and elegant. I feel I can reach for it every day
and wear it anywhere. It’s really timeless.”
– Georgia May Jagger

Villa Bullognia

Maya Njie Aethi Opum
‘When the rain subsides, black pepper, aidan fruit and vanilla warm up the earth with the sun. Aromas of coffee, vetiver and leather stir with thiouraye (churai) incense over formations of stone.
The ancient keeper of lore secretly adorns itself with bark and leaves, its presence seen only by the vultures circling the skies above.’
Black Pepper, Wet Earth, Aidan Fruit, Thiouraye incense (Churai) Vetiver, Papyrus, Coffee, Iris, Suede, Frankincense, Vanilla, Leather.

Ormonde Jayne Bijou Zafran
‘Celestial, A Spell in a Bottle
Saffron, red gold on skin, trailing fire spun in silk, flares like a comet in slow motion.
It's not perfume. It's a presence, a spell in a bottle, softly dangerous, strangely celestial.
Every turn of the head feels choreographed by desire. It doesn't shout, it smoulders.
Wear it when you want the world to lean in just a little closer.’
HEAD: Saffron, Pear
HEART: Cypriol, Iris, Benzoin
SOUL: Patchouli, Musk, Mineral Amber, Vanilla Bean, Leather Accord
Thameen Centre Stage
Olfactive O New Earth
(Soon to be launched…) Green, earthy, petrichor: loamy, soaked soil after the rain, the sense of nature nurturing. Can’t wait to wear this!

This week we’re talking new London perfume destinations and prescribing scents that whisk you straight to the medina or wrap you in a sensuous tobacco haze.
Suzy visited the brand-new @nishane.official boutique in London’s Mayfair, sharing why she’s so glad this Istanbul-born house has a home on Maddox Street.
Just across town, Suzy explored the new @matierepremiereparfums store in Covent Garden, and why their single-ingredient focus feels so perfect to explore in person. Suzy was wrapped in @matierepremiereparfums Encens Suave Extrait, a smoky-syrupy incense that feels like velvet in candlelight.

Then it’s on to your Perfume Prescriptions…
Listener prescriptions!

Katy Rosenbaum – “the good parts of a Moroccan souk”
Katy asks for a fragrance that smells like the dreamy side of a Moroccan souk – oud, bakhoor, amber, saffron, orange blossom, incense and mint – but with no animalic growl or sweaty cumin.

Suggested for Katy:
@kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 – sunlit orange blossom, shimmering spice, soft woods.
@kayali Oudgasm Tobacco Oud – honeyed oud, spiced tobacco, praline-smoked warmth.

Layering ideas:
@emiratesprideperfumes Future Oud – inky-modern oud glow.
@emiratesprideperfumes Future Bakhoor – smouldering bakhoor embers in perfume form.
@27_87 Wandervogel – Moroccan mint, cool spice, wandering-soul musk.
@sergelutens Fleur d’Oranger – narcotic orange blossom, honeyed white petals, shadowy spice.
Scott / @blublazerguy’s picks:
@contesdeparfums Marrakesh – sun-baked spices, warm skin, a whisper of cumin.
@aesop Marrakech Intense – vivid souk spices, dust, dry woods.
@marrakechimperial discovery set – a wardrobe of Marrakesh-inspired scents to mix and match your own souk.
Layering @jomalonelondon White Jasmine & Mint with Amber Labdanum – cool garden mint over golden, incense-warmed amber.
Memoirs of a Perfumer Collector – A Night in Marrakesh – inky sky, spiced markets, flickering lantern smoke.
Question from Cardamomefille – sensual, feminine tobacco (pipe, not cigarette)
Cardamomefille is seeking a sensual scent built around warm pipe tobacco, with a clearly feminine side rather than ashtray smoke…
Suggested for Cardamomefille:
@sergelutens Chergui – honeyed pipe tobacco, sun-baked hay, incense-swirled amber.
@guerlain Tobacco Honey – golden honeyed tobacco, plush woods, cozy purr of warmth.
@guerlain Absolus Allegoria Tabac Sahara – smoky desert tobacco, tart raspberry shimmer, ambergris glow.
Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea – boozy cherry pipe tobacco, dry amber, leather and spice wrapped in vanilla.

Dipping deep into the postbag for this week’s episode, we’re celebrating the strength of one of our listeners, Amy, and rejoicing in the perfect perfume found for @amtstevens for her anniversary trip to Bruges. Aaron’s moved to Mexico City and is seeking scents to stand up to the heat, and Louise is looking for bone-dry forest smells to remind her of home in the peak of summer. Suzanne, meanwhile, is craving watercolour spring florals for a sense of hopefulness we could all do with right now...
We reccommed:
House of Bō AGUA DE SANTOS
Arquiste L’etrog Acqua
Le Labo Bergamot 23

Czech & Speake Ausonia

Diptyque Tam Dao

DS&DURGA Cowboy Grass:

DS&DURGA Brown Flowers

Byredo Mojave Ghost

Xerjoff Naxos

Lords Fragrance House Pengelli Forest Ltd Edition 3 Wick Candle

Floris Bluebell & Hyacinth Diffuser

Floris Cherry Blossom eau de parfum

Connock Verdant

To the Fairest Élan Vital

Nancy Meiland Lupin Meadow

In this week's episode we are prescribing some wonderful fragrances for you our On The Scent Family.
From cuddly cashmeran to scents to conjure up warmer climates, there's something for everyone!