Unreserved Wine Talk

• 357: How Much of Wine's Taste Is Shaped By Psychology? Dr. Alex Maltman Reveals The Surprising Evidence

  How much of what we perceive about the taste of wine is actually shaped by psychology? Are vineyard soils important contributors to a wine’s tasting profile? Why do so many wine producers highlight their soils as a unique factor that makes their wines stand out? Where do the “minerals” we taste in wine originate from? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Dr. Alex Maltman, author of the new book Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate: A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Alex Maltman's terrific book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What did a Dutch research study show about identifying soil type through blind tasting? Is there any geological evidence to support volcanic soils imparting certain characteristics to wine? Why can vines access nutrients from soil but not larger rock layers? Should we consider the root stocks of vines and the type of yeast used for fermentation when analyzing the taste profile of a wine? How does consumer psychology influence our perception of the taste of wine? Which aspects of geology and wine is Alex planning to write about in the future? If Alex could share a bottle of wine with anyone outside the wine world, who would that be?   Key Takeaways How much of what we perceive about the taste of wine is actually shaped by psychology?  It's the psychology that people think, “Oh, heavy bottle. This must be a classy wine.” For many wine drinkers, what the wine expert says will override the more academic factors, rather like a clinician saying, take these tablets, you'll be better, if the wine authority says you're going to taste vanilla. Yeah, I'm getting vanilla. Are vineyard soils important contributors to a wine’s tasting profile? In one experiment, several growers planted four different grape varieties, each in different soils, and then tried to grow the grapes, vinify the grapes uniformly, and then sent the finished wines off to a completely independent expert tasting panel. The panelists were only able to group the wines according to variety. Soils didn't come through at all.   For wine producers, soil is one of the only factors that are difficult to replicate, so they're going to say their soil is special. It's a great selling point. When some wine commentators are saying they're tasting minerals from the soil because it's been taken up by the vine root and transmitted through to the wine. Well, no, that doesn't happen like that. But in any case, any nutrients that were taken up by the vine root and did make it all the way through to the finished wine, almost certainly, in practice, will have originated in the humus.   About Dr. Alex Maltman Alex Maltman is Emeritus Professor of Earth Sciences at Aberystwyth University, in Wales, U.K. Alongside a decorated career in university teaching and research, Alex has for fifty years grown vines and made wine at his home. And through this, perhaps inevitably, he became interested in vineyard geology and its fashionable but poorly understood relationship with wine. This led to numerous publications in both the popular press and academic journals. Alex is the author of the acclaimed Vineyards, Rocks, and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology and newly released Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/357.

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• 356: Why is Geology Essential for Vineyard Management but Overrated When It Comes to Wine Taste? Dr. Alex Maltman Shares Soil Secrets

  Why is geology essential for vineyard management but overrated when it comes to wine taste? Do soils get too much credit for wine flavour, when invisible factors might be the real drivers? What does “minerality” in wine really mean? Rock, nutrient, or just taste perception? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Alex Maltman, author of the terrific new book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Alex Maltman's terrific book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights How did a good teacher spark Alex’s lifelong fascination with geology? What initially attracted Alex to wine and how did his curiosity evolve over the past 50 years? How did Alex’s background in geology support his career as a wine writer? In what ways does Alex’s first book, Vineyards, Rocks and Soils, differ from his new book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate? Why does Alex believe that the influence of geology on wine is overstated in contrast to its influence on beer? What impact did geology have on how beer first developed? How do geological minerals, nutrient minerals, and the taste perception of minerality differ? What is the relevance of geological age to the growing vine in the bedrock? Does knowing the soil type of the vineyard tell us anything about the wine’s characteristics? Why do so many wine drinkers and writers love to talk about geology? How has the concept of terroir been misunderstood and oversimplified? Why is it important to distinguish between the importance of geology for vineyard management versus its influence on the taste of wine in the glass?   Key Takeaways Am I tasting the limestone, smelling the slate? No, you can't. The grower needs to know about his soil. The geology will influence so many things in the vineyard, so the grower may well want to dig soil pits and see what the roots are doing to inform his vineyard management. But this is not the same thing as the flavor that develops in fermentation through to our wine glass. People look at, say, a hill slope with vines on it, and year after year, the wines from here always taste different to the wines from there. What's different? Oh, it's the soil. But at the same time, there's a whole host of invisible factors operating on that hill slope that we know these factors influence how grapes ripen and how the flavor precursors in the grape develop, which are going to go on to in the fermentation make the wine taste like it does. I tend to use the word geological mineral for those compounds that are making half of the vineyard soil and that come together to make rocks. And nutrient mineral, which are single elements, which we need, as well as vines, in order to function. And this word minerality, that's a taste perception. I don't know what it means or what causes it, but that's a different third meaning of the word mineral.   About Dr. Alex Maltman Alex Maltman is Emeritus Professor of Earth Sciences at Aberystwyth University, in Wales, U.K. Alongside a decorated career in university teaching and research, Alex has for fifty years grown vines and made wine at his home. And through this, perhaps inevitably, he became interested in vineyard geology and its fashionable but poorly understood relationship with wine. This led to numerous publications in both the popular press and academic journals. Alex is the author of the acclaimed Vineyards, Rocks, and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology and newly released Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/356.

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• 355: Why Should You Try Brazil's Serra Gaucha Wines and Visit This Stunning Region?

  Why is Serra Gaúcha the best place to start exploring Brazilian wine and what does this stunning region look like if you want to visit? Which grape varieties thrive in Brazil and have any unique varieties been successful? What's happening with wine culture in Brazil? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Tufi Meyer, author of the terrific new book, Wines of Brazil. You don’t need to have listened to part one from last week first, but if you missed it, go back and have a listen after you finish this one. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Tufi Neder Meyer's terrific book, Wines of Brazil. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What’s the story behind Casa Verrone's "Purple Cow” and what was the tasting experience like? How does Brazilian wine law define noble wine? Which types of Brazilian wood are being used for barrel aging and how do they impact the wines? What are the most successful grape varieties that are native to Brazil? What’s happening with wine culture in Brazil? What does it mean for a wine to have a foxy aroma? Does Brazil produce dessert wines? What do you need to know about the Serra Gaúcha wine region? Which cities and wine regions should you visit on a trip to Brazil? How have heavy taxation and bureaucracy impacted the development of the Brazilian wine industry? What is the one message Tufi would like to share with international wine lovers about Brazilian wines? What does Tufi see for the future of the Brazilian wine industry? Who would Tufi like to be able to share a bottle of wine with?   Key Takeaways Serra Gaucha is a hilly, almost mountainous region, north of the capital of Rio Grande do Sul, a state in the south. It has a long tradition of winemaking and it's a very beautiful region with a very well-developed tourist structure. It's certainly the first region in Brazil where you should go when you start to get to know our wines. Almost every winery has a tasting room, and they are open to visitors. Good restaurants, good hotels, good towns to see. And it's not far from the state capital. In Brazil, like in Argentina, the United States, Canada or Chile, European grapes are the most successful - Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc - and these are the most successful grapes so far. But we also make our Vinifera wines, varieties developed here in Brazil. The most successful so far is Lorena, which you will not find anywhere else. We have developed a crossing. It's a white grape, very aromatic, Muscat-like or reminds us of Gewurztraminer. It's very successful, growing in popularity. Brazil has tried to develop some exclusive red grapes, but so far, not with very good results. So you won't find red grapes that are equivalent to Lorena, for instance. We must content ourselves with grapes from other countries, but we have a lot of them. The wine consumption in Brazil is growing, although we would like to be faster. I presume this is because wine is fashionable, wine is very good with food, and people are curious about wine. Wine education is progressing. All this may explain this situation, and our national wine industry is growing too.   About Tufi Neder Meyer Tufi Neder Meyer, a graduate of UFMG Medical School with a PhD in surgery, has studied wines since before college and has been a wine educator since the 1990s. He lives and works in Brazil’s south-east, teaching at The Wine School Brazil (WSET approved). Tufi authored ‘Wines of Brazil’, a part of the Classic Wine Library of L’Académie du Vin.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/355.

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• 354: Why are Brazil's sparkling wines spectacular? Tufi Meyer reveals the answers in Wines of Brazil

  Why are the sparkling wines the most successful wines? What is it about the wines of Brazil, the terroir, that really makes them excel? How does double pruning and winter harvesting help Brazilian vineyards produce higher-quality wines? How did family farming traditions shape Brazil’s wine regions, and what is the crossover between coffee and grape cultivation? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Tufi Meyer, author of the new book Wines of Brazil. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Tufi Neder Meyer's terrific book, Wines of Brazil. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights Where did Tufi’s love for wine come from? Why do red sparkling wines from southern Brazil pair so well with the traditional dish feijoada? Which characteristics make Brazilian sparkling wines particularly successful compared to other wine styles? What’s the biggest misconception about Brazilian wine? How does Brazil’s annual wine production compare to other South American producers? Why hasn't Brazil’s wine industry developed as large as those of Argentina and Chile? How did Portuguese colonial policies impact the development of Brazil’s wine industry? How does Brazil’s size and climate diversity influence viticulture? How has the legacy of land ownership and agricultural practices from the coffee industry shaped modern Brazilian viticulture? Is there any crossover between the coffee and wine industries? How do the different types of viticulture practiced in Brazil differ? What is unique about tropical viticulture in Brazil? Why do some Syrah wines from Brazil resemble those from the northern Rhône in France more than Australian Shiraz? What challenges do Brazilian vineyards face due to the humid climate in certain regions?   Key Takeaways Brazil has all sorts of sparkling wines, from traditional method, made like champagne to sweet, made from Muscat in zesty fashion, passing through tank methods, sparklers. But all of them have a very important character. It's fruit ripeness. Fruit is forward in Brazilian wines. Maybe elegant sometimes, or very well declared at other times, but it's easy to perceive and it's easy to like it. There's a fresh character to our sparklers. If you plant vines in Brazil in places where it is too humid and too warm at that harvest time, you won't get good quality grapes. But if this place has a winter which is not too cold, which has sunny days and cool nights, if you've succeeded in having the harvest during such a time, you have good grapes. That's precisely what double pruning makes. You prune in January, you start a new growth cycle, and the vines will be ripened during our winter. So the winter harvesting. Dry time, sunny days, cool nights. When the Italian immigrants arrived, they were given pieces of land. That's what is today Serra Gaúcha, our main wine-producing region. The relations between coffee and wine have started very much more recently, when double pruning and winter harvest developed here in a coffee region. And today the vines are planted in the same places where coffee does well. In slopes with little risk of frosts, better drain the terrain and many times together, side by side, grapes and coffee groves.   About Tufi Neder Meyer Tufi Neder Meyer, a graduate of UFMG Medical School with a PhD in surgery, has studied wines since before college and has been a wine educator since the 1990s. He lives and works in Brazil’s south-east, teaching at The Wine School Brazil (WSET approved). Tufi authored ‘Wines of Brazil’, a part of the Classic Wine Library of L’Académie du Vin.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/354.

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• 353: How do vines thrive in Mount Etna’s rocky, volcanic soils on the island of Sicily?

  How can vines for wine thrive in Mount Etna’s rocky, volcanic soils on the island of Sicily? Mount Etna is a perpetual baby in terms of its vineyard soils; constant rejuvenation of the soil through ash and lava impacts the vine's health and the resulting grape characteristics. The lava flows are centuries old and vary widely. So, how would a producer choose one flow over another for planting? How does Mount Etna still have pre-phylloxera vines that are over 200 years old? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Ben Spencer, the award-winning author of The New Wines of Mount Etna. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Highlights Why did Ben find Fabio Costantino of Terra Costantino such a fascinating and emblematic person from Etna’s wine community? What is the landscape of Mount Etna like, and what makes it unique and beautiful? How do producers on Etna choose which lava flow to plant on? What does it look like to grow grapes in a place as fertile as on Etna? How do Etna wines compare with other volcanic wines? Are field blends of different grape varieties still common in Etna’s vineyards? How does Nerello Mascalese compare to Pinot Noir grapes? Why is Nerello Cappuccio mostly used in blends rather than as a single varietal wine? How does Carricante, Etna’s signature white grape, develop the kerosene or petrol aroma often found in aged Riesling? What were some of the oldest vines Ben has seen on Mount Etna? How can you get the most out of a trip to Etna? Who would Ben love to share a bottle of wine with?   Key Takeaways How can vines for wine thrive in Mount Etna’s rocky, volcanic soils on the island of Sicily? It's very, very fertile and you can plant just about anything. The vines are only part of that biodiversity. You can put a grafted vine selection, masala, cutting from your own vineyard into the earth. What it taps into will sort of define what that vine will be. We see 95% of the vines take because the soil is so fertile. Mount Etna's lava flows are centuries old and vary widely. How would a producer choose one flow over another for planting? Sometimes it's a simple budgetary decision or a farming decision, whether to take over an old vine vineyard or to buy something and replant new vines, whether you want to face the contours of the mountain, or if you want to ease into it with tractor or some sort of mechanized labor, not that many producers do much more than use a tractor in the vineyard, it's very difficult to use heavy machinery on it, and everybody harvests by hand. But certain contrada, certain lava flows, the age of the soil, the slope, east, north, south, they have different flavors. They have different spices, and it's all that lasagna layering of the mountain. It has its own style. How does Mount Etna still have pre-phylloxera vines that are over 200 years old? On Etna, we don't have a lot of clay. So we do have these very, very old vines. The soils need about 3% clay to incubate phylloxera over the winter. And so the soil isn't old enough to have that much clay in it. There's also the snow up at elevation, so it's just inhospitable to the louse. But the oldest vines that I've seen are either Nerello Mascalese or possibly Minnella. The trunks can get really, really big. They can get really long. They look like they're prehistoric.   About Benjamin Spencer Benjamin Spencer is the Director of Etna Wine School and the award-winning author of The New Wines of Mount Etna. In addition to holding a Diploma from the London-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust, Ben is a journalist, wine judge, and a professional winemaker with two decades of experience working with artisan and internationally traded wine brands in California and Italy.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/353.

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